Saturday, 5th of September, 2020.
Last night I made my camping just nearby a big factory, a few blocks from the road, so it is not noisy. There are a few open fields around here, I entered one without gates, but still with fences. In the field just beside me, there was one man looking over one cow and one sheep. I considered to leave and not take the risk, but something stopped me.
Next morning I am hitchhiking to Shkodër. It is a good spot and there are plenty of car coming but it takes a long time until someone stops. Spartak is going to Shkodër for work. He does not speak English but we have a good time. He offers me a coffee in this super cool restaurant at the river. The view is amazing and I have to say it is the best cappuccino I have in a long time.
My plans are go to a separated part of the town, where apparently there is a nice view of the lake and the mountains. Spartak drops me in the way to the bridge which leads to this place. There is a beautiful walk aside the river, among trees and nice shades. It is a pity that there is no more benches. I cross the bridge Ura e Vjeter e Brunes and take my way to a restaurant called Arbri, where supposedly there is this nice view. On my way I pass through a U.S.A. flag upside down in the top of a house. The walk to the restaurant it is very pleasant itself. Of course I would have enjoyed much more if it was not for The Hulk. After a while, I spot far away the restaurant. I realize that, even if the view from there it is nice, it might not be too different from the one I would have right here, in these open fields along the river. I see a trail going into them so I take it. It is a hot day but luckily I find a place in the shade and sit down. I take my boots off and enjoy a long time for resting after my breakfast.
Shkodër have a nice castle and I plan to go there. I search for it online and there was nothing said about an entrance fee so yay! Now, I do not remember exactly why but I need wi-fi. So I walk to almost near to the bridge which leeds out of town, I try in a Hotel but it is not working, so I walk a bit more and ask in this tiny coffee shop if I could use their wi-fi quickly. A very unpleasant old lady whispers something about wi-fi and that I have to order something. I get piss and leave the place saying that I was just asking for a bit of help. So I decide to walk all the way back to somewhere around the “exit” to the castle. I ask to use the wi-fi in the Kompleksi Arifi Hotel and the lovely lady at reception say that there is no problem and I can take my time. After that, I decide to ask to leave my backpack in another hotel (you know, just to not over asking the nice lady) so I can visit the castle in peace. At Blini Hotel I could not be more welcome. The manager, his son and the manager’s brother are super friendly and kind and say I can leave my bag there for as long as I need. I talk mostly with the manager, brother of the owner and he is a very nice man. They even offered me a refreshment local drink, something like beer with ice cream. Yummy! Soon enough I leave to the castle.
I get there easy and in the way I pass through many fig trees. At the entrance of the caste a surprise: a gate with a cabin where you have to purchase your ticket. It is not much, 300 Leke, something like 2€, but of course I cannot pay. I decide to talk with the guard and quickly explain to him my situation. Without saying one word, he takes one ticket, give it to me and point up to the castle, with a smile in his face which says: “You can go!”. So nice of him! And as if it was not enough, he says (not in English but, you know, with gestures) that I can leave my backpack down there. I have my camera, computer and some small things, but just the computer waits a lot already so I decide to trust on him, so I grab just the camera and the water and leave the bag.
The Rozafa Castle is incredibly beautiful! I really like! And it is huge! There are also pretty views from almost every part of the castle. You can get some really nice shots up there. But I am really fascinated of how much I like this Castle. I walk all over it, reading the information displayed around and try to take some nice photos. A really nice one of me it is a bit difficult because the best spot for it, does not really help single people with a timer. What I mean is, there is not a actually place where I can program the camera and run for a nice photo. But I am alright, the visit totally worth it. After a few hours I go back, grab my first backpack at the entrance, my second one at the hotel and walk towards the “free camping area”. On the way, I stop in a fancy restaurant / coffee shop to ask for some water, and for the first time in my travels (as I can recall) the guy actually offer to also full fill my small bottle, which I have in the other side pocket of my backpack. That means he truly wants to help.
I first sit in a bench aside the river to rest while admire my last view of Shkodër. Something I realize here is how many elderly people they have. And how active they are. Most of them are going around in their bicycles, which is very nice. But of course some of them are just walking around. It is interesting how they like to sit together in the late afternoon to talk in a square bench. One of them does not join his “group” for a few minutes and decide to sit beside me to talk. He speaks little English but still enough. He is of course surprise by the fact I am from Brazil. Our conversation attracts some kids, who unfortunately are quiet rude. Not all of them, but most of them. They look like very poor kids and I feel sorry for them. But they also look happy, buying their candies in this small kiosk, from one of the older man.
There are a few areas named as “free camping area” on Google Maps. The ones nearby, which I can walk to, are definitely not a option. They are completely abandoned, with a huge grass and garbage everywhere. Apart of the chickens, goats and dogs, of course.
So instead of just crossing the bridge and keep walking out of town looking for a place, I decide to back a little, to the camping sign I saw back there, and check if they could help me a bit and let me spend the night for free.
The first reaction of the lady I talk to it is not the best. She seems really surprised with my request and at some point she says something like: “You at least have to pay something…”. I am not begging for her to let me stay, you see, I am just asking if there is any possibility that she could help me and let me stay for free, if not, I will carry on. There is a small group of people by the pool (yeah, it is a quiet fancy place with hotel, restaurant and camping area) and she says she need to ask someone else. The answer is yes. She shows me where I can put my tent and that is it. I really want to pee but I have to wait until everybody leave, since they are all just in front of me. After which seems a long time waiting they finally leave. The lady say the gate opens around 8 a.m. so I do not need to rush too much. But next morning, before 8 o’clock, I am on my way.
